Hello again! We are back in KTM where internet costs 20 rupees an hour rather than 10-15 rupees per minute in Namche and Lukla, etc... hence why we didn't post much before Namche (in Dingboche it was 20 rupees per minute and we were running out of rupees!
Anyway, back to the trek update... but before I tell you about our descent and Tengbouche Monestary, I have to tell you all that we are glad to be back in the smog pollution of Kathmandu rather than breathing yak dung all the time! Yes, yak DUNG! It was everywhere... along the trail, burning in the stoves in the lodges, and then we were breathing it in when camping outside... I think I might be able to blow my nose and not have it be black any longer! EW, yes, but it's TRUE!
I think the yak dung smoke made my cough / sinuses worse too, and I'm feeling better now. Met up with Brian and Tammie in Dingbouche after they descended from Labouche and I was in the next valley in Pheriche at the clinic. Also, I wasn't alone in case you are reading this mom... World Expeditions always sends a porter with you to carry your duffel, and one of the guides. Our head guide Harka actually came with me because one of the kitchen staff had fallen ill 2 days prior and descended to Pheriche and Harka hadn 't heard from him and was worried. Then, after Mingma was done bringing Holly back to Lukla, he headed up the valley and Harka tracked him down and Mingma stayed the 2nd day at the lodge and Harka went back up to Labouche.
So, not only had we heard about a porter dying from AMS in Machermo, but then we heard of another woman dying ( a nurse who should have known better than to continue ascending since she probably had syptoms) and 2 climbers fell and died on Ama Dablam last week too. Plus numerous people walking out sick, being shuttled down on ponies with injuries, and helicopters too. Our last few days it seemed like we heard at least 3-4 helicopters per day heading up the Khumbu valley. We all made it out in one piece thank goodness...
My trekking poles were stolen from under our tent fly in Dingbouche, good thing they were old, but still I had to get down from about 4000 meters!! I used Brian's and our cook Parsharum lent Brian his single pole for a walking stick... one less thing to pack to bring home!
I know I have pictures of yak dung everywhere, but I think on the other camera... here are some yak-like animals called dhopku's (yak/cow hybrid)... traffic jam on the bridge, Khumbu valley style!!
will post more in another window...
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