Back home in the USA!

Just a quick post to let everyone know we are back home safely. It appears we left India just by the skin of our teeth before the bombs in Mumbai; our flight left 11:30 PM Tuesday - 4 hours before the attacks (we arrived in the US 4:30 AM on Wednesday). We were not in Mumbai at all actually, but I'm sure Delhi would still be chaotic getting around and getting out if we were still there. We were staying in Connaught Circle area of Delhi, where the September bombings occured, so Delhi is typically on high alert, with security at all tourist hotels.

Allot to be thankful for on Thanksgiving today for sure... and overwhelming to come back home and be hit with the stark differences of our lives in our comfortable home, and knowing many people we saw don't even have more than 1-2 room small house without running water. Very sad situation that 34% of India's population, and more than 50% of Nepal's population live in real poverty.

Tomorrow we should have more time to post pictures from Jaipur and Delhi, and perhaps some additional photo's to recap the entire trip.

Winding down.....

We are now in Delhi on our last night (Mon, Nov. 24). Sorry we have'nt posted and no pics right now. Both hotels in Jaipur and Delhi cost $3 for 30 min of internet and the cafe we found (25 cents for 30 min) had no USB hookup.
We will post from home on Wed with Jaipur and Delhi pics and perhaps some trip recap. We have some video of Nepal and India we could not upload plus almost 3000 pics to sift through and share some.

B and A
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Agra / Taj Mahal

The highlight of anyone's India trip... the Taj Mahal. Went this morning for sunrise, although it was cloudy so not quite the colors notable but still amazing and some great pics too.

The bench I'm sitting on is the same one Princess Dianna sat on when she visited the Taj and there was a famous picture of her taken here. You have to stand in line to sit here take you picture and get up.

We stopped at a fort in Orccha yesterday on the way, but pics are cloudy, and will show when we get home. But, thought I'd throw in one last picture... 5 people on a motorcycle! Seriously, you can't see but the woman in the orange saree is holding a baby!

Traveling to Jaipur tomorrow... I'm sure there will be many more roadside colorful pictures to take... many others to show when we are home of some crazy Indian roads! Taking pictures from the car is quite fun!

In Khajuraho...

First, I have to tell you about the long trip to Khajuraho, which is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. Since flights are unreliable, and we were on a tight schedule, they didn't have us fly, but we took the train from Varanasi (nice, 2nd class tickets). We met a very nice older couple on the train, a doctor whose son and daughter both live in the US and we had very good conversations with him about politics (US and India!) as well as the unfortunate povery levels in India, and the garbage situation. He says that there just is not any formal / regular system of handling garbage, because even though tax money is collected the services do not get to the people. Very sad. Then he asked about Obama winning, with excitement. And, just to mention, he is like the 100th person we have met who has been excited to talk to us about Obama winninge ! From the Brits, Germans, Aussies we met on the trail on Nov. 5th who very excitingly told us about his victory, to the Sherpa woman with the Obama 2008 pin on her traditional sherpa dress (not kidding)... it seems the world is excited for America's changes and hopes to be "friends" with America again. Just needed to share these observations of the world's view with you...

Back to the travels... Khajuraho is another World Heritage site dating from the 10th and 11th Chandela dynasty ruled over India (before the Mughals). It was in the jungle and virtually undiscovered until about 1838 when found by the British. Note all the detailed carvings... look closely... yes some of the figures are doing what you think they are! Khajuraho is sometimes called a "kama sutra in stone" with some figures "loving each other" (as our guide said).

Brian barely made it through seeing a few temples and had to go back to the hotel though... stomach wasn't feeling well and he saw the doctor at the hotel and got some meds to make him keep down his food! Anyway, he is better now and made it through the long drive from Khajuraho to Agra yesterday...

will post pics from our drive to Agra and in Agra next...

Catching up with pics...

Here are some pictures from Varanasi... bathers along the ghats of the Ganges River; a sadhu (religious devotee); Ganges river dance ceremony (called ganga aarti) performed nightly at one of the main ghats.

Next, will post pics from Khajuraho.

Across India

We,re about halfway through our 6 to 7 hour train ride across the middle of India. I think we' re someplace near Allahabad by now. Don't worry, we're not sharing the car with any livestock. Pretty comfortable considering. Mostly seen farmland along the way. Ran out of time to post pics of Varanase. Will post some when we can.

B
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Pics from Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Crossing the river in a jeep to Chitwan, and Brian next to an elephant.

Pictures from Bahktapur, Nepal

O.k., we're idiots... we had our USB cable afterall... here are a few pictures from the last week or so.

Here is a picture of a 5 level Newari pagoda style temple, the largest of it's kind, and a picture of a famous carved window called the Peacock Window.

Varanasi... Been there, done that...

Well, we took the boat ride on the Ganges ("Mother India") River this morning and saw many interesting things. This is the kind of place that you visit, take photo's to prove you were there, but I can't imagine ever wanting to return. It's very filthy. Really, I'm not kidding. I almost hurled walking through one of the alleyways leading from the ghats along the river to the main road because of all the garbage, smell of urine, cow shit, and flies etc. I know it's a holy river, but it is pretty gross watching people bathe in the filthy river next to piles of garbage. We also saw a few temples, but only one allows non-hindu's inside, and can't take pictures inside also.
We saw burning ghats too (cremation site). They dump the ashes (or perhaps whatever didn't burn thoroughly?) in the river too. No photo's allowed at the burning ghats.
Can't post photo's from here anyway unfortunately, but will hope to update a few pics from Bahktapur Nepal, Chitwan NP, and Varanasi if possible from our hotel in Kahjuraho tomorrow evening. Long (6 hour) train ride to get there tomorrow.... that should also be interesting... Hopefully we can get a rickshaw to take our bags to where our driver will pick us up to take us to the train and we won't have to drag our bags 1/2 mile down the street tomorrow morning.

Goodbye Nepal... hello India!

Back to a computer again! But, can't post pictures from here...
We were in Chitwan National Park for the last couple days on a jungle safari. I feel the need to rant a bit here because we did not have good luck on the safari animal viewing. The day we arrived was day 2 for a group of 52 high school students from Hong Kong, and they weren't exactly very quiet, even on elephant safari (yes, we rode an elephant!). Then, we were looking forward to the next day when they would be gone, and we then realized that the 50-70 year old German group (26 of them) were almost just as loud! Especially in the evening after a few beers... I'm sure the animals were 10+ kilometers away after that racket. We did see some deer, monkey's, wild boar, peacock, owl, stork, but NO rhinoceros! So, not very pleased about that since they say that you are "almost guaranteed" to see a rhino from elephant back. We do not have luck with wildlife still it seems... Honestly though, I didn't think the lodge did enough to remind people to be quiet in order to have the best opportunity to see wildlife. I now understand why the Brits and Aussies always rant about the German tourists... they are quite obnoxious actually. At one point I said to the guide "excuse me, but is it better if we are all quiet to have the best opportunity to see wildlife?" and he said "yes, quiet is best", and 10 minutes later on our walk they were back to yapping again! Unbelievably rude.
Anyway, we left there this morning (and by the way the jeep has to ford a river to get out of the jungle so it's an interesting ride!) then our driver picked us up outside the park for the 4+ hour ride back to Kathmandu ... then a quick stop at Fedex before the airport.
(ATTN: MOM - having trouble logging into e-mail, we mailed a box Fedex to you with a few things, including our hiking boots and other clothing and it should arrive in 2-4 business days.)
Flight to Varanasi was interesting. The Indians don't like the Nepali's, and vice versa... so, after going through security screening, bag search, x-ray etc... and the plane over 1 hour late, we then had to have bags searched AGAIN, ON the RUNWAY as we were boarding the plane! It was ridiculous. They confiscated our batteries, and we were suprised to see them again after other luggage came through.
Varanasi is interesting so far. After meeting our guide / representative sent by World Expeditions, then 30 minutes drive through the crazy streets (bikes, rickshaws, motorcycles, cars, trucks, pedestrians and cows all fighting to pass each other), we then had to put our luggage on a rickshaw because the center of the city is not open to cars, then the rickshaw driver wouldn't go any further and we had to walk with our bags a couple blocks (thank goodness they roll and we mailed home the hiking stuff!).
Tomorrow is 5:30 am boat ride on the Ganges to view the ghats, one major one is right outside our hotel. The river is filthy with garbage, and that's from what we can see tonight. I'm sure tomorrow we will find more filth. Lonley planet guide says it's pretty much an open sewer and has bacteria levels 1 million times acceptable levels! Hindu's come here to BATHE in this river! Yikes! I hope my clothing don't even get splashed a single drop!

After a few days spent in Kathmandu, on Thursday morning we're off to Chitwan National Park for three days and then we fly to India. We're not sure what sort of internet connections we'll have in the park, so it may be several days before we post again.

We spent Wednesday in the city of Bhaktapur, about 45 minutes east of Kathmandu. It is a city known for it's many temples, woodcarvings, and pottery makers. Had some trouble uploading photo's so, we'll try again at a later time.

Random trek pictures

Cute sherpa girl (not in traditional dress though)

and why you do not eat meat while on trek in Nepal!

We will try to post video of yaks and flight leaving Lukla tomorrow...

More trekking pics

Along the trail there are many beautiful things to see other than mountains, so just want to share a few...

Everest Memorials

Mani stones / walls

prayer wheels

and door hangings

Tengbouche Monestery

The highlight of the descent was Tengbouche Monestery. We attended a chanting ceremony in the evening, thought we could make it through the whole thing, but 2-1/2 hours later, it was dinner time, getting dark and we had no lights to get back to camp, and our feet were freezing (you have to take off your shoes). It was very beautiful, but I had wanted to take pictures and you can 't take pics during the ceremony.

Before leaving the following morning, we got lucky because morning chants were on a break, and the monestery was opened for a short time and we met a young monk Mingme (who chatted with Tammie and I for 45 minutes and gave his e-mail address!).

Here are a few pics from the monestery. Exterior gate with monestery beyond, and an interior.

Back in Kathmandu!

Hello again! We are back in KTM where internet costs 20 rupees an hour rather than 10-15 rupees per minute in Namche and Lukla, etc... hence why we didn't post much before Namche (in Dingboche it was 20 rupees per minute and we were running out of rupees!

Anyway, back to the trek update... but before I tell you about our descent and Tengbouche Monestary, I have to tell you all that we are glad to be back in the smog pollution of Kathmandu rather than breathing yak dung all the time! Yes, yak DUNG! It was everywhere... along the trail, burning in the stoves in the lodges, and then we were breathing it in when camping outside... I think I might be able to blow my nose and not have it be black any longer! EW, yes, but it's TRUE!

I think the yak dung smoke made my cough / sinuses worse too, and I'm feeling better now. Met up with Brian and Tammie in Dingbouche after they descended from Labouche and I was in the next valley in Pheriche at the clinic. Also, I wasn't alone in case you are reading this mom... World Expeditions always sends a porter with you to carry your duffel, and one of the guides. Our head guide Harka actually came with me because one of the kitchen staff had fallen ill 2 days prior and descended to Pheriche and Harka hadn 't heard from him and was worried. Then, after Mingma was done bringing Holly back to Lukla, he headed up the valley and Harka tracked him down and Mingma stayed the 2nd day at the lodge and Harka went back up to Labouche.

So, not only had we heard about a porter dying from AMS in Machermo, but then we heard of another woman dying ( a nurse who should have known better than to continue ascending since she probably had syptoms) and 2 climbers fell and died on Ama Dablam last week too. Plus numerous people walking out sick, being shuttled down on ponies with injuries, and helicopters too. Our last few days it seemed like we heard at least 3-4 helicopters per day heading up the Khumbu valley. We all made it out in one piece thank goodness...

My trekking poles were stolen from under our tent fly in Dingbouche, good thing they were old, but still I had to get down from about 4000 meters!! I used Brian's and our cook Parsharum lent Brian his single pole for a walking stick... one less thing to pack to bring home!

I know I have pictures of yak dung everywhere, but I think on the other camera... here are some yak-like animals called dhopku's (yak/cow hybrid)... traffic jam on the bridge, Khumbu valley style!!

will post more in another window...

Into the Khumbu Valley

After Cho La pass, we camped about 500 meters below on the other side of the pass and collapsed! We were exhausted... and I continued to struggle with my cough and congestion. The next day we descended a little and turned north again to Lobuche. I was then feeling slow and coughing and suffering allot, and was not looking forward to camping above 5000 meters in Gorak Shep again (after Lobuche). I felt like if I went further and got to Gorkak Shep, I could hold up the group, and I wouldn't have the energy to climb to Base Camp or Kala Pattar anyway since the plan was to hike to GS, climb KP the same afternoon, then next morning 5 am start the 6 hour round trip trek to Base Camp, and then back to Lobuche in the same day.

I descended to Pheriche where there was a medical clinic instead, and saw the doctor and recieved additional medications. It was not bacterial, and she said I was on the mend, but probably good that I did not ascend since it could easily turn into pneumonia up here. The body does not heal well at these altitudes, and I am now convinced that half of this trek is about staying healthy... between Altitude Mountain Sickness, food / stomache problems, and colds taking a turn for the worse. Nearly every day we have seen helicopters flying up the valley to get someone who fell, got sick... etc. I stayed in a lodge with a lovely woman from the U.K., Susan, who had stomach problems that could be dysentery, and she was only doing Everest Base Camp trek so she missed most of hers... another Ozzie came down to the lodge and she had been vomiting for 3 days and couldn't keep any food down... so, better to descend and live to hike another day than to end up in a hospital in Kathmandu (which doesn't sound pleasant!).

Here is a picture of Brian from the top of Kala Pattar - approx. 18,500 ft (he was the only one to make it - Tammy got to GS, did not attempt KP, and didn't get all the way to Base Camp either... she had started getting a slight cold, but not as bad as mine and she still was not able to push on.

In the photo, the Khumbu ice fall is behind his shoulder and the Khumbu Glacier toward the bottom of the photo. Everest is above his head, and Nuptse is above on the right side of the photo.

Will post more in a few days from Kathmandu...

More trek update

Didn't want to post too much at once or the computer could crash.

After Gokyo Ri, we had to leave the next day toward Cho La pass since we used our rest day in Machermo. We had a long hike over a glacier that was covered with rocks and allot of up and down all day. After lunch, a long ascent toward the pass where we camped above 5000 meters for the first time. (Gokyo campsite was 16000 ft, and Gokyo Ri was 17,900 ft - which is about 5200 meters I think... can't remember).

I had my first (and thankfully only!) breakdown. I had been still suffering the cold that began in Namche, and I had started antibiotics in Machermo because I thought it was a sinus infection. So, about every 100 meters, I was having coughing fits and it was impossible to feel like I was making progress. I made it to camp, with Harka's help carrying my pack. That night was very cold, camping at about 5000 meters. The pass was only about 300 meters climb the next day, but very rocky and steep. We all made it up just fine, but unfortunately did not have great views that day. H ere is a picture with Harka our leader, his brother C.B., and our cook Parshuram with Brian Tammy and I.

trek is winding down...

Well, it's been a while since we posted since we have had NO service with the blackberry above Namche (we're back in Namche today). Actually, we are listening to Madonna's greatest hits we think, and we just ate pizza with yak cheese too! Crazy things being on the other side of the world...

Anyway... Up on our way to Gokyo was challenging, it is more difficult to acclimatize going up this valley (we later found out of course) and Brian and I both had some altitude sickness signs (headaches, nausea, loss of appetite). Holly, had more severe sypmtoms - couldn't get to a resting breathe even shortness at night, and more severe headaches, and bad nausea. When we reached Machermo, Brian had begun Diamox (Holly had begun even a couple days prior) and we visisted the clinic there. Brian's pulse ox level was 79 (normal at that altitude is about 88). So, we took a rest day earlier than planned for Holly and Brian. By the next day, Holly was no better, and the doctor told her to descend. Trip over. She was cold and not very happy anyway so she was o.k. Brian's pulse ox had risen to 85 so he was o.k. to continue.

The next day I had more headaches, and started Diamox also. We got to Gokyo, and climbed Gokyo Ri the next morning (early, 5 am!) Here are 2 pics from Gokyo Ri. Tammy is with us on the left. The lakes are beautiful there... 2nd photo is on the descent. more to come...

Co-trekker's blog link

We have linked a blog to our co-trekker Tammie, check out her blog too! Especially today's regarding the toilet paper "situation"!

Seriously though, everything she says is absolutely true! We bought more "gold paper" today ourselves!

Trek picture posted!

From yesterday on the hike to Namche with Ama Dablam in the background.

signing off!

In Namche

We are taking this opportunity to blog again since it might be a while... we are still in Namche today, and we walked through the baazar where the tibetan traders bring their goods and boy were we surprised... cheap Chinese sneakers and North face knock off gear... not Tibetan goods at all!

I did buy woolen knit long socks and a hat and another balaclava today, we are thinking it is going to be very cold up in Gyoko valley and across Cho La Pass before we get to the Khumbu valley we will have about 4-5 nights camping at around or just under 5000 meters.

I am feeling better today after resting this morning. I have sinus issues that I hope does not blow up into an infection or bronchitis... too early to take those antibiotics yet... but bought lots of throat losenges in Namche because I've gone through allot of what I've brought already and this is the last large town/village so we don't know what we will find beyond or what price it will be! But, we did find Pringles for 180 rupees today (approx. $2). Many other places wanted 300 rupees... oh, and more toilet paper, essential stuff!

Brian did go on the acclimitization hike this morning to the Everest view hotel with views of Everest, Nupse and full face of Ama Dablam. I slept since I didn't sleep much last night but much better after taking decongestants this morning. I accidentally left my Tylenol cold pills in my bag in Kathmandu... yet another mistake (first was not bringing my thicker Thermarest pad or down booties!). Oh, just the lessons for next time! :)

start of the trek to Namche Baazar

Landed in Lukla safely on Monday. First 2 trek days were easy hikes, 2-3 hrs hiking in the morning then at camp for lunch. Not cold yet, in 40's at night, but we know it will be getting colder! Today we entered Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) Nat. Park and had our first glimpse of Everest, and Nupste, and also Ama Dablam. We are now in Namche Baazar staying 2 nights - to acclimatize - in a simple Sherpa lodge here at almost 12000 ft. We have both had some minor headaches, and Anelle has had some sore throat issues, but nothing major and pushing through with the help of VIt. C, Zinc, cold eze and Advil.
Today's hiking was challenging, a rise of 600 meters (approx. 1800 ft) but the total cummulative elevation gain/loss was 2700 ft in only 4 hrs and we were moving at a snails pace due to the acclimitization making it more difficult. Everything is measured in elevation and time to get to the next point, we have no idea how many miles we are traveling!
Might not be able to post much more for the next 10 days or so... its approx. $4 for 15 minutes of internet here! And, we aren't having much luck for data signals with the blackberry... perhaps a text message might get through to Brian's brother Jeff with an update, so check out comments from him as we might ask him to post a short message or two.

Around Kathmandu...

We have had difficulty posting earlier today due to signal problems and internet café slow speed and kicking us offline… so here is the update on the past few days in Kathmandu…

We arrived in Kathmandu early Friday morning, and after a long wait in line for visa’s, enjoyed a shower and a 5 hour nap through the afternoon! Saturday we were out and about on our own until the evening.

We had a stunning view of the Himalaya from a distance on our plane ride in; although we think it was the Annapurna region not Everest region where we are going. We met the other members of our trek group, Tammy and Holly, starting with the van ride from the airport – they are both in their 30’s and Holly is an ER doctor so that is extra peace of mind!

Kathmandu is quite a city; traffic flow is organized chaos, and it is amazing we have not seen a single accident given that cars motorcycles and pedestrians flow through the streets, no lanes, no regard to the “other side of the street”, and I’m sure they have no idea what “following too closely” would mean! We think driving around today and crossing the street while walking around has been more dangerous than the trek we are about to undertake!

Met our guide Harka last night who debriefed us about the trek, etc. what to expect, what to pack, getting us correct size down parka’s, etc. He also took us out into Kathmandu at night to a traditional restaurant with Nepali/Newari food and dance. We would not have ventured out in the dark without an escort, as the streets are dark (NO street lights!), sidewalks are uneven to put it lightly (craters, etc.) and feral dogs line the streets… in fact Brian stepped on one just laying on the dark sidewalk last night and lucky he was not bit! Surprisingly they look nasty, but we have yet to see any snarl at us.

We had a tour around Kathmandu to two Buddhist stupa’s today, plus Durbar Marg (square) where there are many temples around the 17th Century old palace. We also visited a holy river with burning ghats (cremation sites). Our guide Shree sang Nepali songs and told us the stories of the Budda. Many things to remember, we need to write down the names so we can remember ourselves.

Well, we embark tomorrow, 5 am departing from the hotel for 6:05 flight to Lukla. We have to finish packing our gear bags, and weigh them to make sure that we do not have a total of more than 20 kilo’s including our daypacks (approx. 40 lbs).

We don’t know if we will be able to post while on trek, although we might be able to send a short message now and then to Brian’s brother via text message, which seems more reliable, than data service. So, we’ll update as we can, but probably will be sparse.
Namaste!

Day 1

We are in the Delhi airport. After a mad dash through the Paris airport (there was not even time for a cafe' au lait and a croissant) worthy of the Amazing Race (departures out of newark were delayed two hours) we have several hours before our flight to Nepal in the morning. We were haPpy to find our luggage made the short tranfer as well. The food on Air France was great and plenty of it. Talk soon.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

2 days and counting!

Welcome to our blog! Most of you all know that we have been talking about our dream to visit Nepal and trek in the Himalaya for many years... and I have been wanting to do this for close to 15 years - before I met Brian! We finally are managing to go, and our bags are packed and we are less than 48 hours from departure!

We are flying on Wed. Oct. 15th, which is my 39th birthday, and even though I won't be having birthday cake, it will probably be my best birthday because I'm finally doing this! Docs have all said my back is good, knee is good, and I am injury free the past 2 years so I've worked up to getting ready for this and no time like the present rather than keep putting it off.

Brian's brother Jeff loaned us his new Blackberry with world posting capabilities to do this blog, and hopefully we can post from Everest Base Camp! Thanks Jeff!

So... this is the plan...
Oct. 15th - fly to Delhi via Paris. Oct. 16th arrive Delhi late PM. Oct. 17th fly Delhi to Kathmandu.
Oct. 18th, meet the group we are trekking with
Oct. 19th - sightseeing in Kathmandu
Oct. 20th - fly to Lukla and begin Everest Circuit Trek! Number of days on the trail is 20. During the trek we visit Namche Bazaar, Gyoko Lakes region, climb a trekkers peak Gyoki Ri, cross Cho La Pass into the Khumbu Valley, visit Everest Base Camp, climb another trekkers peak Kala Pattar, and return to Lukla via Namche Bazaar again. We return to Kathmandu on Nov. 9th (or 10th if necessary to delay flight due to weather).

Nov. 13th we are visiting Royal Chitwan National Park in Nepal for a jungle safari (on elephant back!) and maybe spot a Royal Bengal tiger... if we are lucky.
Nov. 15th we fly to Varanasi India for tour of the Ghats along the Ganges river, then visit the anchient temples at Kajuraho, the Taj Mahal and Red Fort in Agra, the Red Fort in Jaipur - the capital of Rajhastan, and Old and New Delhi. We fly home November 25th, arrive early morning Wed. Nov. 26th, JUST in time for turkey day!

We hope you will drop us a note to keep in touch, and read our blog updates!

Namaste!